Advanced Diploma in Cosmetic Formulation Science

Purpose

The current cosmetic industry in South Africa is largely based on big corporate companies where most of the formulation research and development takes place overseas, the result being that the industries in South Africa focus more on manufacturing, packaging and sales rather than on problem solving and new product development and the use of alternative, safer raw materials. In line with the purpose of an Advanced Diploma is to offer an intensive, focused and applied specialisation, which meets the requirements of a specific niche in the labour market. The purpose of this qualification is to provide graduates with the scientific knowledge and skills to safely develop, formulate and test cosmetics, and possibly become entrepreneurs by starting their small businesses. This will be achieved through development of knowledge in hair and skin anatomy, cosmetic ingredients, cosmetic formulation, product stability, efficacy assessment, product safety and quality management, as well as knowledge of regulation of cosmetics.

Rationale

Historically there is a world-wide disconnect between dermatologists and cosmetic formulators. This leads to dermatologists reacting to side effects without much input into the prevention of side effects. Dermatologists treat a large number of preventable side effects from hair and skin cosmetics.

The Division of Dermatology prioritises health and safety in cosmetic formulation. With experience of anatomy and physiology of the skin/hair as well as the focus on Healthcare professionals on disease prevention enables the institution to collaborate with chemists in training cosmetic formulators who will put safety above product performance. To that end the institution has launched a high-end dedicated research laboratory for hair testing and skin toxicology - The Hair and Skin Research (HSR) Laboratory.

Through current research, illegal ingredients in various cosmetics have been identified. However, the availability of a research and testing facility is needed to not only to establish a coherent regulatory and legal framework but to also sensitise companies and improve industry compliance.

Women of African ancestry have the highest prevalence of cosmetic alopecia in the world; the damage caused by the active ingredients of currently available products is well documented. The most commonly used products are called "Relaxers". All hair relaxers are based on the same mechanism of action - e.g. Sodium Hydroxide increases the pH from below 6 to 11-14, which breaks down disulphide bonds in keratins and the hair is combed straight. Then a neutralizing shampoo brings down the pH to normal and allows haphazard reconstitution of disulphide bond in permanently straightened fragile hair. The high prevalence of scalp damage associated with relaxer treatments is not surprising because the skin also has keratins that are similar to those in the hair. In spite of significant current knowledge of protein chemistry, product formulation and development; Afro-textured hair product development is neglected primarily because of short-term profits from outdated "relaxers".

The Cosmetic Industry is a large multi-million-rand market. However, except for a Diploma in Cosmetic Science offered by the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists, there is no dedicated academic qualification in South Africa that specifically prepares employees in the cosmetic industry to formulate cosmetics, or to provide necessary skills and training for formulators to become entrepreneurs in the current economic climate which encourages self-employment. With research, technology and funding, South Africa can become a world leader in safe-product development, especially for African hair and increase the share of the market that directly benefits local companies.

There is an explosion of scientific knowledge on skin penetration and safe product development for hair and skin. Currently, skills in cosmetic product formulation develop largely by chance (as "on-the-job training'), where a Science Degree with any combination of subjects is enough to qualify one as a cosmetic formulator. The National Research Foundation Internship Programmes attracts a large number of young South Africans with Bachelor of Science (and even Master of Science) Degrees who are unemployed.

The Department of Science and Technology has recently adopted the Bioeconomy Strategy. The objective of the Bio-economy Strategy with respect to health "is to support and strengthen the country's local research, development and innovation capabilities. By drawing on these capabilities, South Africa will be able to manufacture active pharmaceutical ingredients, vaccines, biopharmaceuticals, diagnostics and medical devices to address the disease burden, while ensuring a secure supply of essential therapeutics and prophylactics. The development of new and improved therapeutics, diagnostics and medical devices is a key area of intervention." The skin is the largest organ in the body and as the interface between the internal and external environment has the potential to absorb toxins and harmful ingredients applied to it. Thus, appropriate training to prevent disease is the low-hanging fruit in the Bioeconomy Strategy as it relates to the hair and skin.

Taking all this into consideration, graduates will be equipped with innovative scientific tools to use chemicals for safe cosmetic product formulation. This qualification is part of a larger comprehensive multidisciplinary strategy to breakdown historic barriers, and help protect the public from preventable harm.

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

The institution is a broad institution with multiple forms and sites of academic practice. RPL practices for specific programmes are context-sensitive and framed to suit those differing contexts where RPL is deemed appropriate. RPL at the institution is based on a developmental model, not a deficit model of adult learning; it builds on knowledge and skills that adults have already acquired.

RPL Process

The institution engages in a process of evaluation for students who apply on the basis of RPL. The evaluation of prior learning is an academic task and, like other forms of assessment, is done by academic experts in the given field, drawing on other experts as needed.

The academic will decide on the most appropriate methods and approaches for the assessment of prior learning in their field. The assessment of the RPL candidate and the decisions concerning their admission are the ultimate responsibility of the Deans in consultation with the heads of department to which they are applying, facilitated and supported by the expertise of staff within the Centre for Higher Education Development (CHED).

RPL processes involve the following procedures

1. Adult learners seeking alternative access to a specific programme of study will approach the Admissions office or the Faculty officer responsible for RPL who will then direct them to the appropriate programme leader.
2. Programme leaders develop the RPL assessment in consultation with CHED.
3. The outcome of the RPL process, including a written report by the assessor(s) detailing the basis on which the recommendation is made, will be forwarded to the Head of Department concerned.
4. The final decision regarding the admission of the RPL candidate to a particular programme of study is made by the appropriate faculty committee or dean.

Assessment of RPL: RPL assessment methodologies include but are not limited to portfolios of evidence, interviews, demonstrations and simulations, observations, written and oral exams, letters of recommendation and other forms of expert testimony, case studies, and documentation of successful past learning experiences; and assessment methods allow for judgements of past learning in relation to the outcomes of the particular course/programme. While the choice of methodologies is ultimately an academic function, the institution recognises the importance of learners' input into the decision-making process. The choice and use of a given set of RPL methodologies are consistent with the institution principles of assessment more generally. RPL practices should meet key criteria for validating assessment practices, and in particular: transparency, fairness, legitimacy, attention to unintended negative consequences, and feasibility.

Entry Requirements

For admission to this qualification the learner must have a

• Bachelor of Science or a Science qualification, Level 7.

And

• Students will be expected to have Chemistry at 2nd year level and Maths/Statistics and Physics at 1st year level. Other preferable subjects may include Human Biology/Molecular Cell and Biology/Microbiology/Biochemistry.

This qualification comprises compulsory modules and elective modules at Level 7 totalling 120 Credits.

• Scientific Principle of Cosmetic Formulation, 30 Credits.
• Cosmetic Formulation Technology, 30 Credits.
• Hair and Skin Biology for the Cosmetic Formulator, 30 Credits.
• Cosmetics: Claims, Regulation and Ethics, 15 Credits.
• Professional Communication and Project Management, 15 Credits.

1. Integrate knowledge of cosmetic raw materials and their formulation with the goal of safe formulation.
2. Demonstrate a coherent and critical understanding of the principles and theories of the science of formulation.
3. Demonstrate knowledge and understanding of the anatomy of skin and hair as substrates for cosmetic application and the interaction thereof with cosmetic raw materials and products.
4. Demonstrate knowledge and application of the appropriate tests to determine efficacy, safety and stability of cosmetic formulations.
5. Identify, analyse and deal with complex and/or real-world problems and issues using scientific principles as they relate to the validity of cosmetic product claims, and the regulation and ethics thereof.
6. Demonstrate the use of appropriate information retrieval and processing skills.
7. Present data and communicate in an appropriate academic and professional manner by using a range of genres appropriate to the context of cosmetic formulation science.

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 1

• Demonstrate knowledge of the following raw materials in terms of their classification, chemical structure, reactivity and interaction, toxicity/safety and their function within a cosmetic formulation:

> Fats, oils and waxes.

> Gums, thickeners and resins.

> Polymers.

> Pigments and dyes.

> Surfactants (dispersants, emulsifiers, wetting agents, foaming agents).

> Preservatives and antioxidants.

> Fragrance.

> Naturals (Extracts and oils).

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 2

• Demonstrate knowledge and a critical understanding of the principles and concepts of formulation science which include:

> Colloids and interfaces.

> Colloid stability theory.

> Rheology.

> Solubility parameters.

> Polymer-Plastics technology.

- Demonstrate ability to prepare the following formulation types

> Emulsions.

> Microemulsions.

> Foam.

> Dispersions and suspensions.

> Solid forms e.g. microcapsules, aggregates, powders.

> Organic formulations.

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 3

- Demonstrate knowledge and understanding of

> Hair anatomy.

> Structure of hair.

> Hair curvature.

> Biochemical properties of hair.

> Hair and chemical straighteners.

> Common scalp diseases.

> Skin anatomy.

> Cell biology.

> Skin biology, including anatomy, histology and physiology.

> Common skin diseases.

> Interaction of cosmetics with skin and hair.

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 4

• Demonstrate knowledge of various testing protocols to determine efficacy, safety and stability of cosmetic formulations and the ability to select and carry out appropriate tests for a particular type of formulation or application. Such tests would include:
• Product efficacy tests e.g. foaming, cleansing, moisturisation, trans-epidermal water loss, emolliency, anti-ageing, sun protection factor determination etc:

> Allergy tests.

> Toxicological tests.

> Product Assays.

> Formulation stability testing protocols.

> Product packaging compatibility.

> Claim substantiation.

> Preservative challenge test.

> Safety and product protocol.

> Artwork development (barcode/symbols/consumer language/regulatory/export requirements/foreign language).

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 5

• Understand the scientific evidence that is required to make product "efficacy" claims.
• Understand the application of statistics to ensure validity of experimental data.
• Demonstrate knowledge of the health risks of current formulations.
• Understand the regulations governing cosmetic products formulation and marketing.
• Understand the ethical and sustainable product formulation and testing including social and environmental justice issues.
• Demonstrate knowledge of the correct labelling requirements of cosmetics.
• Demonstrate knowledge of export requirements.
• Demonstrate knowledge of the social determinants of skin and hair product use.

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 6

• Identify and use critical analysis and synthesis to independently evaluate quantitative and/or qualitative data.
• Demonstrate the ability to engage with current research and scholarly or professional literature in the field.

Associated Assessment Criteria for Exit Level Outcome 7

• Manage a project (e.g. launch of a new product) from conception to implementation.
• Demonstrate the ability to communicate and present data.
• Design questionnaires to assess consumer needs relevant for product design and marketing.
• Work as part of a real-life multidisciplinary team.

Integrated Assessment

The qualification will assess each module separately via specific assessments which may include group work. The assessments vary, ranging from types of assessments, based on the outcomes of the modules and test. The tests range from (multiple choice questions, open-ended questions, case-studies), assignment (written report or oral presentation) presentation on topical issues, practical reports, reports and an exam. Furthermore, an examination will be written for four of the modules, and the examination counts 30% of the final mark for each module. For the fifth module only an in-course assessment will be used and there is no final examination.